Sunday, 27 September 2015

Sewing in lace part five - it's looking like a skirt!

The amount of hand sewing... I guess we can call it a couture experience. A lot has happened since my previous post: I've sewn all eight darts, cut them open, removed some of the soutache, hand overcast the edges and then catch-stitched them down to the silk organza.
Darts in soutache lace |

Then it was time to actually put it together. First I quickly pinned it together (centre back seam and side seams) and tried it on inside out, just to see the fit. It was actually rather good, so much better than the sky blue dress. So the next step was basting the seams to make a proper fitting, and also because I can't sew when it's only pinned. The soutache slides away from the seaming line and the fabrics shift if the layers aren't firmly basted. (I'm so grateful I basted the silk organza! I would be a mess otherwise.)

The fit was ok, but a bit hard to tell since basted seams tend to give a bit. But good enough, so I sewed the centre back seam, basted in a zipper and tried again. I needed to take in the front a bit over the hips, otherwise - a success! I sewed the side seams, cut down the seam allowances to 2 cm, pressed, removed some soutache (but not too much in case I need to let it out some day in the future), hand overcast the edges and catchstitched them to the organza.
Seams soutache lace |
Whew again.

I've also done the waistband; my own version of a faced waistline as described by Clare Shaeffer. First sewing a twill tape just next to the fold line, then cutting down the seam allowance and catchstitching to the organza, then securing some of the soutache that wanted to slip away, and finally fell stitched a wide cotton twill tape (that I folded).
Faced waistline pencil skirt |
My initial thought was to use Petersham - as Shaeffer suggests - but I thought it would be too bulky; and there's a bit more give in Petersham than the twill tape. I folded the twill tape; but not in the middle, since I wanted a single layer at the top where there is more bulk.
Twill tape and petersham ribbon |
The hem is halfway done: the edge is hand overcast, and basted in place. Catchstitching on its way. The slit is almost done; I need to do something magical about the remaining lace edges. I think it will involve fire and needle... The zipper, hooks and eye and lining is left. Six days until Saturday!

By the way, this might be the reason why I would need to let it out:
Dior or DIe by Angela M Sanders and gluten free scones |
Two nights of gluten free scones (almond and buckwheat flour and lots of dark chocolate) with too much butter and Dior or Die (yeah, right that any auctioneer would sell Christian Dior's Bar suit with loads of other couture clothes and not as a main feature...) and very soon a friend is picking me up for this:
World's best dessert |
The world's best dessert: vanilla ice-cream, salty caramel, dark chocolate and warm berries...


  1. Thanks for sharing the details of your beautiful silk skirt. I have one on my todo list for years but never dare to start.

    1. I'm glad you enjoy it! The final part will be posted this weekend. (And I can understand your hesitation. There's something about lace...)

  2. Lovely work and great handling of the lace.

    1. Thank you! I really appreciate it - especially since it comes from the master of lace!


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