Sunday, 24 January 2016

Patterns and toiles for the Peacock Dress

I've started drafting patterns and making toiles for my Peacock Dress. There will be several more...

First I sewed the bodice of Gertie's wiggle dress (Butterick B5814). I've said it before; I'm not made for patterns drafted by somebody else. I was right in the middle of the two envelope sizes but went for the smaller one since I know the huge amount of ease the Big 4 uses. I checked the measurements for the finished garment and they were a centimetre smaller than me but still the bodice is way too big, and way too long - the proportions are totally off. And all the drape happens somewhere below the bust. The sight of me in it just isn't something I'm willing to share on the Internet - but you can see my points on my dress form as well.
Toile the Peacock Dress | www.stinap.com
Next step was playing around with a pleated / draped bodice of my own. That was really fun! I also wanted a version with the draping overlapping each other, as on the Modes Royale pattern.
Toile and pattern drafting the Peacock Dress | www.stinap.com
I used the picture of the pattern pieces and worked on that to understand the design, and although one attempt was better than the four others, I still didn't quite figured it out. To stop me from getting in a really bad mood, I sewed the first bodice - the one I drafted - instead.
Toile the Peacock Dress - pleated bodice | www.stinap.com
This is my first try drafting a pleated / draped bodice (I mean, like ever), and I'm extremely pleased. The fit is amazing if I may say so! But I want more pleats and a sharper v-shape, and also a bit deeper neckline, so I'll continue to work on this.

I made two different backs - one with draping from centre back and one from the side seam.
Toile the Peacock Dress - side drape | www.stinap.com
Toile the Peacock Dress- centre back drape | www.stinap.com
I had an idea for a third one; like an attached train but decided against it an early stage when I just played around with fabric on the dress form.

Then I made a long list of things I should work on, some small details and some major design ideas. I might give the overlapped draped bodice another go, and I'll try with a godet instead, both in the side seam and centre back seam.

My plan is to have the pattern ready by Easter, along with all material I need. So I have plenty of time and am actually thinking about sewing something in between. A silk blouse? A black skirt? A blue or green dress...?

3 comments:

  1. I love the draped bodice you are duplicating. I know what you mean about being dependent on commercial patterns. They usually don't fit right and many of the designer details are eliminated. I hope you post photos of your completed dress.

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    Replies
    1. And I will share every step of the way! And there won't be a completed dress until the beginning of June... :)

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  2. The bodice seems to be amazing ! Can't wait to see the final garment !

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